Where yesterday nothing went right, today the Gods were smiling on me all day. In defiance of the forecast the weather dawned bright and sunny and stayed that way, and I had a delicious breakfast in a lovely deli cum cafe with great coffee in Rock before heading down to the slipway to catch the ferry to Padstow. Before you ask, the ferry is an official part of the path and not me cheating! But it was certainly very pleasant to sit back and relax in the sun, reflecting on the long walk via Wadebridge that I was being spared.
After a leisurely start, I didn’t have much time to explore Padstow itself, and I figured I would in any case have to return with a different wardrobe if I wanted to check out Rick Stein’s famous restaurant. So, I joined the happy throngs on the path towards Harbour Cove. It wasn’t long before the next opportunity of refreshments arose – the Rest a While Teagarden in Hawkers Cove. As the path wove between the houses the whole hamlet had the feel of walking through someone’s garden, but I’m sure that’s the way the sign pointed!
A constant procession of eating opportunities followed, the trade off for the greater number of other tourists to share the path with, until I’d more than made up for yesterday’s deficiencies. But it was my final break of the day – ice-cream in Constantine Bay – that was the most exciting: I met another person doing the whole walk, my first in 14 days of walking! A young guy from Bristol, Rich isn’t a big walker but fancied a challenge. I was impressed by his boldness, and he seemed to be getting along alright so I reckon he has a good chance of making it.
I said goodbye to Rich in Treyarnon and pushed on to Porthcothan, and a refreshingly warm welcome at the lovely Berryfields campsite.
The friendly owner recommended the pub where her son works, just up the road, which was part of the neighbouring Carnevas campsite. Seeing me peering in the window of the shop one of the staff knocked up the wardens who cheerfully went to check what gas canisters they had, and sold me one even though the shop and reception were both closed. Clearly, campsites are a bit like to busses – you wait and wait for a good one and then get several at once.