Rugged Tales

Wherever my feet may take me…



I emerged from my tent this morning to fog so thick I could barely see 20 yards. Since a key feature of walking the path is the stunning views I dawdled about the campsite hoping it would clear as the day warmed up, but it was just as thick at 9:00 as it had been as 7:00. I ummmed and ahhhed and eventually decided that, since it wasn’t actually raining, I really ought to walk. To that end I went over to the washblock to retrieve my boots from the drying room, donned them and strode confidently out towards the tent…and into pouring rain. I just couldn’t face two soakings in as many days and decided there and then to take the day off.

Having eaten all the food I’d bought with me yeaterday I was glad when the rain stopped after a bit so I stayed dry as I walked into Gorran Haven for supplies. A lovely small village with a little beach and tiny harbour I was surprised to see it had as many as three (small!) churches. But the most interesting sight for me was the purported 16th century smugglers cottage.


In half an hour I’d seen all the village sights. What to do with the rest of the day? If I’d been there tomorrow I might have attended the Mevagissey Ladies’ Choir concert!


As it was, I had no other option but to head to the village cafe for a cream tea. Though not able to knock Falmouth from the top spot it was nevertheless enjoyable, and the first to use a scone with sultanas: a bold but successful innovation! It also introduced me to Cornish tea, as in tea actually grown in Cornwall. I’d had no idea that there was a tea plantation in the UK, so Tregothnan tea came as a complete surprise. But it had a distinctive, light flavour I really enjoyed; I plan to mail order a stock when I get home!

Exiting the tea shop my attention was caught by two cars in matching orange ‘Spaceships’ livery. Spotting a poster in the rear window of one I snuck over to have a look. They turned out to be the support vehicles of two guys (one Brit, one Kiwi) who have set out to run the entire Coast Path in a fortnight to raise funds for, and awareness of, mental health issues. That’s the equivalent of running one and a half marathons every day for a fortnight, which would be impressive enough on smooth, flat roads but I’ve seen first hand the terrain they have to cover. For all my complaints about the weather, and the mud, and the overgrown paths, I am fundamentally walking the Coast Path because I enjoy it. But I can’t imagine enjoyment is anywhere on these guys’ radar. I had a great conversation with Phil, one of the support drivers, while he waited for the runners to arrive for some food, water and ice for their injuries. As they came into view I left them all to it, humbled by the pain they are prepared to endure for a cause about which they clearly care deeply, and the magnitude of their achievement compared to my own modest effort.

Author: ruggedtales

Wandering the globe in search of insight and adventure!

5 thoughts on “Humbled

  1. Hi

    Thanks for the mention of Coast Path Run !

    It was nice meeting you and I enjoyed our road side (road middle ?) chat. Walking the entire coast path is no modest effort, it is a very long and tough route!

    Sadly we are down to one runner and he is walking – though yesterday he knocked off 64kms and aiming for similar today, so hardly a stroll in the park. We are now planning on finishing in Poole two days late on Tuesday, so three more big days to go !

    I hope you have been enjoying this great weather over the past few days, long may it remain.

    happy travels


    • It was great to meet you too. Really sorry to hear of the injuries – it’s such a tough undertaking to run the Path. Hope the remaining guy makes it to Poole!

      • Finished today….

        Such a lousy day to complete an epic journey. I hope you haven’t been too caught out by the rain – we were wearing three layers and were still cold. horrible day !

        Dont walk Portland ….

      • Congratulations! But such a shame you didn’t get better weather. I spent the day hiding from it in a cafe!

        What’s wrong with Portland?!

  2. It is a 21km round trip, I will cover myself by saying the weather was lousy, low cloud and rain. The cloud obscured any view so all we got to see was the stuff on the peninsular, like quarries, prisons, council houses etc ! there was some nice stuff of course, the first section had some great cliff and rocks and the area around Portland Bill is pretty good.

    But it is a long walk, and if the weather sucks, I would stay in a nice cafe in Weymouth !

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